Introduction
The following account is drawn from the Annals of the Anglo-Hibernian Province, compiled by Fr. Salvian Nardocci C.P. Passages are quoted verbatim from ANNALS_1856-58 and ANNALS_1859-62 (Provincial Archives). Newspaper extracts reproduced in the Annals — from the Weekly Register — are indicated as such.
The Decision to Move from The Hyde
The Passionist retreat at The Hyde, Edgeware Road, had long been felt to be too far from the city. The new Provincial, Father Ignatius Paoli, arrived in England with a firm determination to find a new London house. The Annals record his purpose:
"The new Provincial, Father Ignatius of the Infant Jesus Paoli, came into this country with a determination already formed to accomplish this object. He had in fact before leaving Rome, received express injunctions to this effect from the General, who from reports made to him from various quarters, had resolved that the step was necessary, and accordingly the first time that he had the opportunity of conversing with Cardinal Wiseman, he expressed his wishes to his Eminence, and requested his assistance, which was kindly promised."
In the spring of 1858 Father Provincial returned to England to pursue the matter. Having consulted the solicitor Mr Tucker, he was shown the plan of a property on Highgate Hill. He and Brother Thomas first visited it in disguise, not wishing to excite the usual prejudices against Catholic purchasers. Father Eugene also disguised himself — "in the clothes of Mr Matthews, a house porter at the Custom house" — and wrote a detailed report to the Provincial.
Opposition and the Auction
Cardinal Wiseman initially opposed the settlement at Highgate as likely to interfere with several neighbouring missions, but was persuaded after Canon O'Neill made a favourable report on the site. His consent was given by letter on 21 May 1858, but the matter was then referred to the Archbishop Coadjutor, Dr. Errington:
"Dr Errington did not dissemble his decided opposition to us, declaring that if it had been left to him, he would by no means 'have allowed our establishment in the Archdiocese'. He objected to us on several grounds. First our unfitness, as he alleged, to be of any service to the diocese. Second, our having to depend on the alms of the faithful, and the consequent necessity of continual begging. Thirdly, our interference with several other missions by being settled at Highgate."
The auction was fixed for 26 May. Dr. Errington gave his consent — "reluctantly" — only at 8 o'clock in the evening of 25 May, the day before. Father Provincial had to hasten to Mr Tucker's house at 10 o'clock that night to give him instructions to bid. The Annals record the outcome in a letter from Father Provincial to Fr. Salvian at Broadway:
"At 2.00 the new property at Highgate began to belong to the Passionists. At costs £4,450."
The money had been raised at speed and under considerable difficulty: Mr Tucker lent £300, Mr Redding £400, Dr. Copeland of Cheltenham £500 — all without interest — and Mr Maurigi completed the sum with a loan of £100. Lord Petre gave £25. Legal possession was taken on 29 September 1858.
The Temporary Chapel, 1858
As soon as the house was secured, a temporary chapel was fitted up inside the building:
"A temporary chapel had been fitted up inside the house, by the taking away of the flight of stairs at the entrance of the Hall, and by having knocked down the wall of the two parlours, and by so doing accommodation was made for about 150 or 200 persons. Benches for people were provided, as well as the communion rails."
The solemn opening of the temporary chapel took place on 21 October 1858. Father Eugene, Rector of the Retreat, blessed the chapel before the High Mass. The Annals record what followed:
"After the first gospel, his Eminence Cardinal Wiseman delivered a magnificent and eloquent sermon, which kept the congregation in breathless attention, but especially Protestants of whom there was a large number… The people of Highgate seemed highly pleased in what they saw and heard on this memorable day, and several Protestants owe their conversion to Catholicism by being present in the chapel of Saint Joseph on this very day."
The Building of the New Church
The temporary chapel was quickly found insufficient. Cardinal Wiseman himself remonstrated against building on too small a scale. In January 1860 Mr Bird drew up plans for a much larger building. The money for it was partly raised through a £1,000 mortgage on the Broadway property, secured after Father Ignatius Spencer wrote to his nephew, Earl Spencer, who agreed to renew an annual allowance of £300 that had been stopped when Father Ignatius entered the Congregation.
The foundation stone was laid on 29 May 1860. The Weekly Register described the occasion:
"The ceremony of laying the first stone (or rather the corner stone, for the works are to some extent advanced) of the new church at Highgate, of the order of Blessed Paul of the Cross, better known as the order of Passionists, took place on the 29th instant, in the afternoon… A large number of Fathers of that distinguished order from different countries assembled for the happy occasion. There were also many of the other clergy and laity of London, and its suburbs, and the scene was one not likely to pass soon away from the memory of those who witnessed this fresh evidence of the 'second spring' (as Dr Newman so appropriately names it) which is bringing forth again in this once Catholic land those blossoms which are destined to fructify into eternal fruit."
The blessing of the stone was performed by Dr Morris, Bishop of Troy. The sermon was preached by the Very Reverend Dr Anderdon. Among those present were Lord and Lady Campden, and Father Ignatius Spencer, who served as subdeacon at the Chapter Mass held the following day at Sutton.
The Opening of the Church, 25 April 1861
The church was opened on 25 April 1861, less than a year after the laying of the foundation stone. The Weekly Register gave a detailed account:
"The church of Saint Joseph is in the form of a Cross, the length of the interior is 104 ft and its breadth is 63 ft. At each end of the transept there is a small side chapel, one of which is dedicated to Our Lady, and the other to Blessed Paul of the Cross, Founder of the Order. There is convenient fixed sitting space (including the floor, and the gallery) for 700 persons, and if it were necessary 300 more could be accommodated by means of moveable seats."
"The new building stands prominently between the main road of Highgate, leading from Holloway to the north, and Maiden Lane. In coming down from Highgate, the church with its small belfry presents a most remarkable feature of simplicity and solidity. Through half way down Highgate Hill, the Cross of Saint Joseph's is on a level, if not above, the weather-cock of Saint Paul's Cathedral."
The sanctuary was described as "extremely gorgeous." The Weekly Register recorded the symbolism in detail:
"The sanctuary is extremely gorgeous, and on it had been brought to bear all the highest resources of art. It is in the Roman style, after the best Italian Cinque-Cento models. A rich profusion of floral symbolism adorns this portion of the church… The designs for the symbolism of the beautiful sanctuary are the production of that eminent Catholic artist, Mr Sang of Hampstead, assisted by the Fathers and Brothers of the Order. The altar-piece, which has been specially painted for this Church, is a beautiful work of art. It is by Monsieur Laby, a French Catholic artist… Mr Brown of Kentish Town has executed the staining of the windows with considerable skill."
The church was built by Messrs. John and Edward Bird of Hammersmith. The interior fittings — the high altar, sanctuary furniture, mahogany altar rails, and benches — were made under the direction of Brother Alphonsus, "who with Brother John did the principal part of the work with their own hands."
The sermon at the opening High Mass was preached by the Very Reverend Dr Manning. In the evening, Father Anderdon preached at solemn Vespers. The collections on the day exceeded £100.
The Grand Organ, 1862
A bazaar was held in the school room at Highgate to raise money for a new organ, but the proceeds fell short. The Annals record what followed:
"Depending therefore on the generosity of the people who frequented it, and other friends, who might be willing to contribute their mite, but especially trusting on Divine Providence… went to Brussels, and at once ordered a magnificent organ for the value of £1,000 of the English money. In due time the organ came, was put up, and when ready the said Provincial invited all the superiors to attend at its inauguration. This took place on the 28 of August, Feast of the glorious Saint Augustine, who himself told us what he felt on entering the house of God, and heard the sacred music. 'It drew sighs of love from my heart, and tears of joy from my eyes.'"
"As soon as the sacred ministers entered the church by the lower sacristy door, the grand opening piece was played on the organ by a first-rate Belgian organist, who had been engaged by the builder of the said organ for the occasion. The singing of the mass was performed by a select choir of the best musicians in London, amongst whom were some Italians and Germans."
The First Grand Procession, 2 June 1861
Just over a month after the opening of the church, the Passionists held the first outdoor Corpus Christi procession in the grounds of St Joseph's. The Annals give the reason:
"Our Fathers, taking advantage of the good disposition of the people, resolved to have a Grand procession in our own grounds, and by this means to show to Protestants especially how grand and solemn are the sacred ceremonies of the Catholic Church. This procession took place on the Sunday between the Octave of Corpus Christi, 2 June, just one month and 8 days after the solemn opening of the church of Saint Joseph. This procession was indeed the great centre of attraction for great number of the devout, as well as the curious, who flocked thither not only from the neighbourhood and surrounding districts, but from the centre of London, and more distant parts, in order to witness the extraordinary ceremony to be performed in the open air, a new thing in the great metropolis of the English empire."
The Annals note that at the services attending the opening of the church, "at both services the large congregation which consisted principally of Protestants appeared well pleased at what they saw and heard, and several of the Protestants continued to frequent the church, till at last they became fervent Catholics."
Highgate as Provincial Hub
St Joseph's became the principal house of the Anglo-Hibernian Province and, after the division of 1927, of St Joseph's Province. It hosted ordinations, novitiate communities, and several Provincial Chapters, including the 22nd Provincial Chapter (August 1920) and the 23rd (June 1923). By 1911 the building was familiar enough to be described in the Cross Bulletin (1911–12) as follows:
"Most Londoners are familiar with the great dome of St. Joseph's Retreat, the Passionist House on Highgate Hill."
Note: the 1861 church is described in contemporary sources as having a "small belfry." The dome referred to in 1911 reflects later alterations to the building.
Sources: ANNALS_1856-58 and ANNALS_1859-62, compiled by Fr. Salvian Nardocci C.P. (Provincial Archives). Cross Bulletin, Vol. II (1911–12). Acts of Provincial Chapters, 1920 and 1923 (Provincial Archives, Highgate).